MANILA, Philippines — Cupcakes became her signature, but Sonja Ocampo always knew she wanted to do more.
Known as the queen of cupcakes since founding Cupcakes by Sonja in 2006, Sonja has been a fixture in Manila’s dessert scene. Fast forward two decades, and it’s been one sweet success after another — in mid-2024, she launched By Sonja, her newest café concept along Chino Roces Avenue in Makati City.
With her iconic cupcakes on proud display, the quaint and dainty spot offers a more refined and evolved culinary experience, showcasing Sonja’s expertise in French pastries and love for delicate confections.
The menu is a “bit more grown up than what we offer at Cupcakes by Sonja,” Sonja told Rappler, who went back to a lot of French techniques while developing her menu.
“I love that there is freedom under this brand to experiment, do things I’ve always wanted to do, and to play around,” she said. By Sonja represents the same seasoned pastry chef, but reveals a different side of her — one deeply rooted in 20 years of French training, here and abroad. It was, as Sonja puts it, the perfect opportunity to expand her culinary repertoire beyond cupcakes.
“When a space opened up beside my commissary in early 2023, it felt like the perfect opportunity to venture into something new and different,” Sonja said. This led to the creation of By Sonja.
Spanning continents and kitchens
“This new takeaway bakery allows me to experiment with a wider variety of pastries and baked goods that wouldn’t necessarily fit under the Cupcakes by Sonja brand,” Sonja said, who was guided by “a sense of refinement and restraint” as she puts it — a philosophy she learned while studying in Japan.
“My visits, studies, and training in New York, France, and Japan have deeply influenced our creations,” she said.
Sonja’s culinary journey started in New York, where she pursued formal training in both Culinary Arts and Baking and Pastry Arts.
“I initially wanted to work in a hot kitchen, but I found more calm and joy in pastry, so I shifted my focus. I had the chance to work in several pastry kitchens across New York City, but my most valuable experience came at Bouley, the city’s longest-running 4-star restaurant at the time.”
“It was the toughest environment I’ve ever worked in, but I learned the most there,” she shared.
Bouley, widely regarded as the best training ground for many renowned chefs, had a profound impact on Sonja. She described her nearly two-year tenure as being “equivalent to a decade elsewhere.” She rotated through various stations — from viennoiseries to cakes, pastries, bread, and restaurant service — which she said became the “biggest influence” on her career.
After returning to the Philippines, Sonja ventured into the restaurant industry, partnering with Chef Henry Cheung and her New York roommates to open The Good Earth Tea Room, which eventually expanded to four branches. But it was during a trip back to New York that changed Sonja’s trajectory.
“I visited Magnolia Bakery at the height of its popularity. I applied for a job, interviewed with the general manager, Barbara Di Noccola, and got hired. Inspired by Magnolia, I returned home and opened a cupcake bakery,” she said. Cupcakes by Sonja launched on September 8, 2006, and later expanded with Cakeshop by Sonja, specializing in custom cakes.
“Over the past 18 years, I’ve immersed myself in continuous learning, attending various classes and working with different mentors across the globe. I have a deep passion for learning.”
Laying the groundwork
Entering her newest concept By Sonja, you’re immediately greeted by the distinct aroma of freshly baked goods. The space, which had long been her commissary, now houses a curated selection of cakes, pies, and pastries, elegantly displayed in chillers. A few tables are set around intimately — perfect for an overdue catch-up with a friend or a solo coffee date.
You’ll see Sonja by the counter at times, taking orders from clients, or behind-the-scenes overseeing the kitchen, which is where she’s most at home and comfortable.
On the counter are rows of viennoiseries, from buttery croissants to sandwiches. Each item is made fresh daily, with Sonja’s team starting work before sunrise. Every day at the bakery begins early, with bakers arriving to prepare doughs, batters, and fillings.
“As soon as the ovens warm up, we start baking everything,” Sonja said. By mid-morning, the team moves swiftly, assembling and finishing cakes and pastries, stocking shelves, and preparing orders. By 8:30 am, the doors open, and the bakery welcomes its first customers of the day.
Sonja learned early on that taking shortcuts isn’t an option, and that it is essential to transform complicated methods into something that appears “simple,” yet always delivers high quality and flavor.
“At By Sonja, we use French techniques and do everything the traditional way, even if it takes days to make.”
Witnessing David Bouley’s “obsession with ingredients” helped shape Sonja’s work ethic; seeing him “so passionate” about them and where they came from also encouraged Sonja to never compromise on ingredients that didn’t meet her standards; always sourcing the best ones she could find.
The team continues baking throughout the day, and is “always conducting research and development for future products,” Sonja shared. After closing at 5 pm, the team reviews the day’s work and begins preparations for the next. “It’s a constant cycle of creativity and precision,” she added.
New pastries, same passion
Inspired by Bouley’s obsession with Japan (“he talked about it constantly, and often used Japanese ingredients in his French fare”), Sonja also has many subtle Japanese influences in the menu — you’ll see the use of soba, yuzu, matcha, hojicha, and shiso in her pastries and drinks.
The star of By Sonja is the crêpe — don’t sleep on the Crêpe Carrement Caramel, made with Bordier butter, chantilly cream, and then served with salted caramel ice cream. It reflects her level of skill — the delicate, smooth, paper-thin creation brings both lightness and substance, with a soft, slightly crisp edge and a melt-in-your-mouth center.
“We use only the best ingredients,” Sonja shared. “It’s about getting the balance right. I want every bite to be an experience.” So why this specific dessert?
“I’ve always loved crêpes. I first tried them in Paris in 1995, and I’ve been hooked ever since,” Sonja reminisced. “In 2011, I spent ten days in Rennes, immersing myself in the culture and learning everything I could. Now, I get to bring that back home.”
Sonja is also proud of her Galette Complete, made with 100% buckwheat flour and filled with ham, egg, and cheese. Inspired by her time in Brittany, France, where she learned the art of crêpe-making, these incredibly thin, crisp, and somewhat smoky-savory crêpes have become a standout.
The Broceliande is also a golden-brown, crisp delight featuring smoked salmon, fresh spinach, a sunny-side-up egg, and cheese, all enhanced by creamy Bordier butter.
The Napoleon Mille-feuille, meaning “a thousand layers,” is a delicate creation of crisp, golden puff pastry layers (pâte feuilletée) that alternate with two rich layers of silky vanilla bean pastry cream (crème pâtissière). Light, buttery pastry makes way for the smooth, creamy custard, which is balanced by the bright, tangy burst of fresh strawberries.
It’s conveniently packaged as an on-the-go-treat; almost like an elegant dessert sandwich. Try the Kouign Amann too, known for its caramelized layers of flaky pastry.
By Sonja’s aren’t your typical sugary treats; Sonja believes in the “ideal balance of flavors and sweetness,” aiming for simplicity in everything they do.
Pair any pastry with the comforting Hojicha Tea — nutty and rich, with hints of cocoa — or a straightforward Daily Driver Pourover — a smooth and strong brew with rich chocolate, biscuit, and almond notes, using beans from Brazil and Honduras.
“Our goal is to have something for everyone,” Sonja added. This philosophy is reflected in her inclusive menu, which offers gluten-free, plant-based, and sugar-free options. She also believes in sustainability via composting, with nutrient-rich soil being used to grow fruits and vegetables on her family farm. These crops, in turn, find their way into her desserts, creating a sustainable, circular model that reflects her dedication to minimizing waste.
Though her journey from Cupcakes by Sonja to By Sonja has been marked by growth and evolution, Sonja’s dedication to her craft remains unchanged and her passion for the art stays unmatched.
“It’s a continuation of everything I’ve learned, but with the added joy of creating something new every day.”
Sonja’s patrons over the years still have much more to look forward to, and many more creations to try. As Sonja puts it, her plan for the future is simple.
“Keep creating, keep growing, and always improve. That’s what drives me.” – Rappler.com
